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I first heard the croissant story in a high school history class, though I fear it may be only a myth. Legend holds that a Viennese baker (or perhaps a Turkish one; the details are muddy) overheard the Turkish army tunneling under the city. His sharp hearing led to the tunnel being blown up, and this patriotic baker asked only that he be given the exclusive right to bake crescent-shaped pastries in honor of the occasion (crescents being the symbol of Islam). Alan Davison, in The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food, credits this story to the first edition of Larousse Gastronomique, but finds it unbelievable.

Every year I’ve baked dozens of cookies for family, friends and colleagues in lieu of scarves, socks or shawls. An assortment goes into Chinese take-out boxes and distributed far and wide. Over the years, the list has grown to include over seventy-five of those boxes. For a few years I have been promising to stop baking, but I just couldn’t. I’m not sure whether I was more concerned about disappointing the recipients or myself. But this year I meant it. It had grown to such an extent that it felt like a full-time job on the weekends, and it had become less a joy than a task.

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